True fashion for the era of fake trends

Lately I’ve been wondering if we are experiencing a mass psychosis that is expressed through trend reportage. If a year ago it seemed that all was well – that the restrictions and trauma of the pandemic highlighted fashion and self-expression as a new outlet for freedom – it seems more and more that there are a thousand trends happening at the same time. In the last month alone I have read stories about a new twist in the girlboss trend called “that girl”, a trend that women really enjoyAnd a trend in which women have fun a bitmore “Dinocore,” “clowncore”, And “Two.”

On TikTok, trend forecasting has become the new hustle and bustle of influencers, almost a trend itself; creators who can put together photographic evidence with a concise and compelling monologue are executing a kind of competitive prophecy. And the platform’s algorithm seems to favor this kind of information sharing: the more ridiculous the prediction, the more traction it gains and the more predictions we are fed. Meanwhile, fast fashion brands like Shein have accelerated production at a pace that they can predict and reflect these trends, making them feel even more real as they ping pong through “feel” and “vibe” without an aesthetic compass.

Runway fashion, which is expected to move at a slower two-year rate, has also joined this rat race, as designers fill their shows with potential viral moments and styles that are replicable by anyone with a bit of wit and a pair of scissors. The pace of fashion makes everything seem fast, carefree and, at times, unfortunately, even careless. Mostly it seems like people are doing things that humans have been doing for most of the last century – relax, work hard, drink martinis, don’t drink martinis – but now we can’t resist the urge to package them into something that looks like. more meaningful than simple consumer choices.

Jerry Lorenzo, the 44-year-old designer behind the Fear of God brand, is a man who started many trends himself (real trends, in fact). When he started his brand nearly a decade ago, he was a luxury cornerstone of the hypebeast movement, which often encourages a ruthless, product-driven consumer style. Lorenzo worked on a first season of Yeezy with then-designer Vetements Demna and, after making the t-shirts for Justin Bieber’s “Purpose” tour, helped transform merchandising into meaningful clothing. He was a close friend and collaborator of the late Virgil Abloh, whose Off-White brand pushed streetwear to the forefront of fashion, and his trainers and sweatpants remain a staple in the hip corridors of Los Angeles and New York. York.

But lately, Lorenzo has embarked on a different kind of fashion journey. In early 2020 he collaborated with Alessandro Sartori of Ermenegildo Zegna for a collection that shifted the attitude of the inner circle of menswear to apparel, making it look less performing and more like a bow. And now his collections, which come in his time rather than seasonally, serve a slower, even higher purpose. Today he launches a new collection, the first in almost two years. While working on it, he said in a video interview late last week, he wondered about every garment, “Is it timeless?”

“I feel inundated with trends, colors, graphics and much more now“He said.” And I want to provide a safe space for someone who wants to get out of that, but can still get into that conversation with everyone else that’s ‘now’ and feels like ‘now’, but not it must be so trendy. ”

Instead, what she wants her clothes to do is help her customers “feel the confidence. I want them to feel sophisticated, but I want them to feel the freedom to be themselves and know it’s not the trend that validates you. It is the individual that you are.

Lorenzo calls this collection Eternal. And while clothing is a natural progression of the casual elegance of the collections he launched in late summer and fall 2020, it seems radical enough to me to proclaim that you want to challenge the cycle of trends and try to create something that lasts. over time value. It seems so obvious to try to float above it all, yet the heady pursuit of relevance has made it a rare impulse.

Lorenzo is almost diving into the realm of slow fashion, of designers with far less recognizable names who rarely stage fashion shows, such as Paul Harnden’s 19th-century inspired work, Casey Casey’s simple French cottons or the intoxicating beauty of Elena Dawson. They make clothes that are intentionally hard to find and hard to make. Lorenzo hasn’t gone that far, of course, and has in his corner the fact that his clothes are meant to make you feel as comfortable with a suit as you are with your favorite hoodie. This means he has the potential to transcend the knowledgeable customer of slow fashion brands, or perhaps convert hypebeast into recovery. in connoisseur. He is planning with incredible thoughtfulness, even integrity, almost like a novel.

“I approach it like a book or a musical album,” said Lorenzo, referring to putting together collections. “I don’t really come close in terms of seasons and seasonality. I get close like, hey, do I have something to say? Do I have the resources to say what I mean in the best possible way? ” He remains independently owned – he also has a partnership with Adidas, where he holds the position of chief of strategy for their basketball category – and his assets are reaching his point of view, as he puts it. For example, it was able to transfer 80% of its production to Italy. “And so hopefully whenever we have something to say, it’s better than the last thing we said.”

Lorenzo, of course, is not the only designer who appreciates continuous improvement over novelty. The Row’s Ashley and Mary Kate Olsen come to mind, and Lorenzo, like The Row and other influential American aesthetes, has been particularly attracted, lately, to Giorgio Armani’s 80s and 90s models. Her cascades of beige in fluid, almost spiritually understated cuts have written a new script for minimalism. If Prada was cerebral, edgy and dark, and Calvin Klein was sexy, Armani was, just as Lorenzo said, a self-confident man whose clothes blessed the wearer with a feeling of chic monastic lightness.

“I feel inundated with trends, colors and graphics and a lot of now.”

In Eternal, the cuts are generous without flooding the wearer with fabric; the tones are bone, milky beige and grayish whites; and almost all pants blur the line between a structured pant and a comfortable sweatpants. You can see how a person dressed in these outfits could calm an investor room or subtly change the energy in a bar line. “I’m trendy and I love to present myself in a certain way”, Lorenzo reflected. “But it has always been something underestimated. It has always been something that isn’t loud and doesn’t require attention. As much as I want to be quiet in a room, I also want to be competent, you know?

Like Armani, and again, like The Row, Lorenzo is thinking about how his clothes could provide solutions, not only to the holes in your wardrobe, but also to your questions about the sense of yourself. How do you wear a suit, which has different proportions and fabrics than a hoodie or sweatpants, and still feel like yourself? “That’s what I’m always chasing, you know? How can I always be sophisticated in the way I present myself, but honest, relaxed and at ease? ”

Lorenzo’s evolution as a stylist over the past decade, from a Los Angeles DJ to a new hero in intentional apparel creation, has been one of the most interesting in fashion. By remaining independent, he has given himself the time to grow and explore that investors or large luxury home assignments rarely allow. Too often the references of a designer are too obvious, too superficial: the Polo line by Ralph Lauren, or the images of Annie Leibowitz for The Gap, or the extravagant spirit of ’80s couture that seems to have captured the imagination of many young womenswear designers in New York. In fact, prior to his relationship with Zegna, Lorenzo talked about wanting to build a brand like Lauren’s. But Lorenzo has a new modesty about him, and his clothes seem intimate in a way that Lauren’s, which is much more like a lovely American-style encyclopedia, just can’t.

We talked about how giving up on fashion can be pretty boring (depending on how many influencers wearing viscose pants you follow on Instagram, you might say it’s even a trend in itself) and how she tweaked her pieces and played with fabrics, to give his pieces a little heart and a little personality. Changing the shoulder of a jacket from a past collection to make it look less 80s, for example. As a result, these are real dresses, for someone who isn’t looking to create a look for a moment, but who believes that fashion can improve your life in small but meaningful ways.

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