M.Your favorite type of fashion is not the one that gets on the front page. Not the omelette dresses, or the maternity dressing gowns. Praise be to Queen RiRi for both of them, but the fashion moments that make me really hot under the collar are in the small print. The blink of an eye changes in the time of fashion, when the style changes direction and something suddenly looks chic.
I’m talking, for example, about the first time I saw someone tie the belt of their trench coat instead of tucking it into the buckle and I realized that this was the key to making a trench coat more Paris Vogue and less French cop. Or when I noticed that by taking your back off your coat, instead of tucking your arms in your sleeves, you could have instantly elevated your entry into any social situation with a pretty stunning effect – kind of like the freestyle-trick version of getting to a jet. private. Or when Phoebe Philo from Celine did the thing with the hair pulled back into her polo neck. Or when the penny finally dropped that all the cool people had stopped wearing invisible sneakers with their sneakers and instead started wearing thick white sports socks (I think it happened about two years ago actually, but I just noticed).
This is my favorite type of fashion from cold as a stone. The correct amount to fold the cuff of the pants in a given season. Button the shirt up or leave two buttons unbuttoned? To put on the shirt or leave it loose? To carry the bag over the shoulder, hook the strap in the crook of the elbow or tuck it under the arm? This is my jam. This, my friends, is juicy stuff. This is where you can roll up your sleeves (or not, depending on the season) and get stuck.
This type of fashion has been lost for a while. After the peak of the pandemic, fashion split into two camps. There was the anti-fashion crew, anything with a fleece lining and the roaring 1920s brigade. The choice seemed clear-cut: to refuse to dress up altogether or gorge on feathers and frills, like an Easter egg hunt after Lent.
To be sure, none of us can choose between returning the clock to its old normal and taking a big leap forward into a new way of living Zen. We all have to get confused in whatever the new normal is. From a fashion standpoint this is good news, because this is where the gist of the story happens.
So, let’s hear it for wearing medium blue jeans again: not indigo, not washed out, but solid May sky blue. We dig a regular one-inch-thick smooth leather belt and start wearing it with slightly oversized pants, a white shirt, and cat’s eye sunglasses, as influencers do. Let’s try a knee-high boot under a below-the-knee skirt, because this combo will be everywhere in the fall, remember my words, so we might as well jump on it before the weather gets a lot warmer. Or leaning on a chunky moccasin, if you haven’t already. Perhaps you could experiment with a short skirt and long blazer, which is the new tailored look adjacent to the suit in town.
None of this is news, but fashion doesn’t have to be. The best type doesn’t even look trendy, actually: just clothes that look modern. No drama, no danger, no twist. Fashion for a world that continues to flow smoothly. That sounds like a must to me.
Hair and Makeup: Sophie Higginson with Bumble & Bumble and Stila. Shirt: Monki. Pants: Maje. Belt: All Saints. Sunglasses: Burberry.com