Please black your fish – The New York Times

Good Morning. The day after I failed to catch tarpon in the backwaters of Florida’s Everglades National Park last week, I ate a blackened redfish sandwich on the porch at the Rod and Gun Club in Everglades City. It wasn’t a particularly spicy version of the compound that Paul Prudhomme popularized in the 1980s. But it came on a soft bun with a fat, shiny slice of Immokalee tomato, some chilled lettuce, raw white onions, and a sprinkle of pickles, and I happily ate it in the breeze off the Barron River, washing it all down with iced tea .

There’s something exciting about how dried thyme and oregano combine with cayenne pepper, onion and garlic powder against the sweetness of the fish. It’s a specific taste, just like New York Slice Pizza has a specific taste. It’s a true taste of the Gulf Coast, though you can get blackened fish at chain restaurants in Tacoma and Bangor alike.

So of course I had to make another plate of the stuff when I got home, using Vallery Lomas’ excellent Blackened Fish with Quick Grits recipe (above). I hope you do that with me this week.

Another dish you’ll be making soon: rqaq e adas, a Middle Eastern lentil and bread dough (or noodle) stew that Ligaya Mishan wrote beautifully for The New York Times Magazine. (It sometimes has other names: “rishta,” for example, or “harak osbao,” meaning “he-burned-his-finger.”) “The work in the kitchen is invisible,” Ligaya wrote of the lentils and starch, “but there’s pageantry on the plate: pale pomegranate seeds, fresh parsley, small squares of fried flatbread, and crunchy onions, all devoured.” Yes, please.

Or consider this Hana Asbrink Roasted Fennel and Grape Salad — sweet and salty and warm under an orange dressing with toasted walnuts and manchego cheese. Zainab Shah also has a fine recipe for bhindi masala, where you brown fresh or frozen okra before folding the slices into a flavored tomato masala that you can eat with roti.

And I really want to get to Kay Chun’s novelty: Shrimp Piccata Spaghetti. It’s super cool. They gently cook the shrimp with buttered shallots, then add them to pasta and season everything with butter, lemon and capers. Nothing wrong with that!

Expect something on the order of 20,000 more recipes at New York Times Cooking. It is true that you need a subscription to access it. Subscriptions allow us to always offer you more. So if you haven’t completed one yet, would you consider subscribing to it today? Thanks. We all appreciate it.

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Well, it has nothing to do with the brewing of clams or the smell of Earl Gray tea, but I just read Emily Wishingrad’s article in Smithsonian magazine about the development of Betty Boop. Clean.

“Atlanta” is back on FX streaming on Hulu. Get on!

Here’s Ligaya again, in T, writing about the ethics of lavish eating in a world where so many are starving.

Irish-language rap is finally a thing, wrote Una Mullally in The Times. This is “CEARTA” from the West Belfast group Kneecap. It’s explicit in every language, so click carefully. I’ll be back on Wednesday.

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