in-cosmetics Global: naturalness and upcycling as recovery ingredients

While determined to meet the crucial traceability needs evoked in brand marketing content, suppliers continue to focus their efforts on finding natural ingredients.

Starting from a kind of fruit grown and harvested by hand on the island of Reunion according to the principles of zero waste, Gatteditch developed the new Solastemide active whose molecules are extracted from chayote, also known as Christophine. Solastemis promotes protection against photoaging by preserving keratinocyte DNA from UVA-induced damage.

Greentech used sustainably hand-picked yellow gentian roots in France to develop the Miralide active, which acts on the problems of the eye contour, upper eyelids, the Valley of Tears, dark circles and bags.

Robertetto presented its range of natural actives for nutricosmetics and cosmetics, including leading ingredients Lipocalorea source of phytoceramides, e Keranat, a millet extract that prevents hair loss. It was also an opportunity for the Grasse-based company to highlight the ActiScent range, playing on the duality of smell and on the physiological properties of the perfumer’s natural raw materials. These active scents can offer firming benefits, such as ActiScent Aqua Cristeor fortifying virtues, such as ActiScent beautiful flower.

Creating meaning with upcycling

Beyond naturalness, upcycling seems increasingly desirable as a proven means of preventing the waste of resources and energy.

Cosmo fragrance developed the Golden berry natural ingredient based on dried goblet of physalis, a fruit from an ethical Colombian farm. “It is a very common fruit consumed in South America. His envelope had not yet been exploited. Consumers certainly need genuine rhetoric. Today they want natural products, but they want them to come from traceable chains with well-identified producers,”Explains Alexandrine Demachy, General Manager France. Extracted with supercritical CO2, this ingredient offers anti-aging cosmetic properties and floral and fruity notes for the scents.

Eurofragrance he drew inspiration from wood to develop his first prisoner. The Barcelona-based composition company on display The soul of the forest, which is obtained from shavings of a particular essence. L’Âme du Bois aims to create premium perfumes of all categories: refined perfumery, home care and personal care. “It is a multifaceted innovative ingredient, it seems to act as a link between all types of woods,“says senior perfumer Angéline Leporini-Poubeau.

As for Lucas Meyer IFFhave updated the by-products of perfumery to create the Time wasters collected through the residues obtained from the extraction of natural olfactory compounds from the LMR Naturals by IFF range. At the show, they introduced pink peppers, with Pink Wasstar Berrieswhich soothes scalp irritation, helps reduce redness and soothes itching, but also lavender, with Wasstar lavenderwhich protects the skin from indoor pollution by strengthening the skin barrier function, reducing inflammation and improving skin brightness for a radiant and healthy appearance.

Mibelle has also produced a new asset derived from upcycling: SLVR ‘Coffeea silver skin extract of coffee, is a by-product derived from the roasting of coffee beans that hydrates and comforts dry skin.

To restore its natural beauty to the skin

Directly inspired by the holistic trend of beauty, the radiance of the skin and the ability to reflect joie de vivre and health are a recurring theme in the search for cosmetic ingredients.

Solabia associated two new natural active ingredients in relation to this problem. Sea light embellishes the brightness with an action of the eye contour on dark circles, bags, wrinkles and crow’s feet. This new certified organic ingredient is rich in sulfated arabinogalactans contained exclusively in the fragile Codium seaweed and sustainably harvested on the Portuguese coast. It reactivates the microcirculation to offer the cells optimal nourishment and improves elasticity for a global anti-aging action and a brighter look.

Derived from cabbage, a detox superfood grown in an organic cooperative in Brittany, the Neoluminescence the active of vegetable origin offers a delicate organic exfoliation suitable for dry and sensitive skin. Combined with a generous amount of isothiocyanates, this exfoliating effect stimulates the cellular metabolism necessary for skin detoxification and epidermal renewal. Neoglow provides an overall revitalizing effect.

Also relying on the ability of living organisms to repair themselves, Silab launch the Regenixir natural anti-aging active of biotechnological origin. Thanks to its global action, Regenixir promotes the regeneration of mature skin.

No water, no alcohol

Solid cosmetics, powder, leave-on, substitution with floral waters… all these approaches are in line with the current higher expectations related to water conservation. Solabia present this problem with the Waterless box which offers various solutions for face, body and hair care formulated accordingly, using only two teaspoons of water for all eight products presented.

A renowned specialist in the natural perfume segment, Fragrant expressions showed their NatCo line of perfumes designed for the organic market. Touch Natco’s technological innovation now allows us to offer a solid version of these natural fragrances.

Furthermore, the AquaBoost NatCo the technology developed three years ago to replace alcohol with water in perfumes is now available for natural perfumes, which are known to be more difficult to dissolve. This patented technique consists in diluting a concentrated natural perfume at a concentration of 30% in water for a final dose of 10% in the perfume. With this aqueous base, the Cosmos certified final result offers an olfactory intensity estimated at 93% after 4 hours and 85% after 24 hours.

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