Cosmetic successes: innovative gelation and epigenetic tests in the spotlight

The winners of the 7th edition of The cosmetic winsthe international competition dedicated to innovation in the cosmetics industry was presented on March 22, during a ceremony broadcast on Cosmetic Valley TV.

Organized by Cosmetic Valley, the competition aims to highlight the most promising research in the cosmetics sector conducted by start-ups, SMEs and university laboratories, around the world.

For this 2022 edition, more than 80 projects from 18 countries were examined. Then, the six teams that reached the final stood before a jury [1] chaired by the president of Cosmetic Valley, Marc-Antoine Jamet.

As every year, two prizes were awarded:

The Academic Award was awarded to Dr Sami HalilaResearcher in Glicochemistry at the CNRS [2] for the project: CARBOGEL, a simple and ecological carbohydrate-based gelling agent for the oil phase.

The project concerns the supramolecular gelling of organic liquids, such as organic solvents or oils, with monosaccharide derivatives that self-assemble in 3D hierarchical networks of nanostructures. The sweet ice cream makers are made with an ecological and efficient method (reaction in water). Gelling can be done by sonication, heating / cooling or dilution. The gel is considered a stimulating and controlled release matrix for cosmetic agents. Finally, our project contributes to “green” and sustainable cosmetics by limiting our environmental and social impact

The Industry Award went to Stefan MazyCEO and founder of Australian Derma Health Solutions Pty Ltd. for their project: SkinRNA Micro-cell Test.

A world first, this repeatable and laboratory-tested epigenetic diagnostic patch quantifies the effectiveness of skin care through real-time gene expression activity. One device collects more than 15,000 genes, while algorithms provide gene expression activity scores for skin functions, including collagen and elastin production and skin inflammation. After the intervention on the product, a second test is performed which measures the activity of the new gene against the initial benchmarks. Consumers can then repeat the tests at intervals to monitor and monitor skin improvement at the genetic level without waiting for visible signs.


[1] 2022 Jury: Marc-Antoine Jamet, Cosmetic Valley / President – Estelle Bouvet, Yves Rocher / Director of Formulation and Development – Jean-Christophe Choulot, Caudalie / Director of R&D – Nathalie Clément, French Ministry of Economy and Finance / Director General for Companies, whose portfolio includes the leather, fragrances and cosmetics sector – Carole Chrétien, CNRS / Director of Corporate Relations – Michel DAIGNEY, BPI France / Head of the sector – Chemistry and environment – Laurence Dorlhac, journalist – Pierre Garçon, Ecomundo / CEO – José Ginestar, Sisley / Head of R&D – Frédéric Leroy, SFC / Vice President Community Life – Christophe Masson, Cosmetic Valley / CEO – Sarah Nokry, ESSEC Ventures / Head of Business Development – Xavier Ormancey, Pierre Fabre / R&D Director Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetics – Karl Country, LVMH Research / Director of the Research Department – Caroline Plougastel, Chanel / Director of Strategic Partnerships – Nathalie Seyler, L’Oréal Group / D Director of the Rec Advanced Search portfolio.

[2] French National Center for Scientific Research (Plant Macromolecule Research Center, CNRS), Grenoble (France)

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