As fashion director for the Accessories Council and founder of JMR Trend + Creative, Jessica Richards (pictured) is concerned with knowing where the trend winds are blowing. And that is why JCK reached out to the New York City trendsetter to talk about spring 2022 fashion.
We just happened to meet Richards the day after he presented his predictions for 2023 to the board. So we asked her to give us a scoop on what’s going to happen in jewelry pike this season and the next few seasons to come. The interview has been slightly modified.
What did you predict in the 2022 forecast? And how accurate were you?
I always name each season. I had given the spring of ’22 the name “I can’t get enough”. This would have been the season, if we saw a little more mobility in the world, that people would like to express this sense of optimism and joy and a return to normal by dressing up a little more.
I was expecting a lot of sparkle and a lot of very stylized accessory moments in both prêt-à-porter and jewelry, and a lot of color: this sense of dressing with presence. In shoes, for example, it’s about platforms, because you want to be seen.
How does this idea translate into jewelry?
In jewelry, the ring is the thing. Hands have been hidden for so long, so we wear a lot of rings, stack bracelets and show those categories.
What are the other big ideas dominating the season?
The other big trend is this idea of nostalgia. In jewelry, you’re almost seeing these childish or DIY trends like friendship bracelets, but with more elevation. Even though the pieces are a little more whimsical, they still have fine materials involved, like smiley faces painted on pearls. Or Lauren Rubinski, who puts the letters on a chain.
It is almost like a marriage of nostalgia and fantasy. Fantasy is an important thing that we are seeing in the market. Even looking at the photos from the Gem Awards, part of the curating that took place on people’s necks and hands, someone had a necklace with a tag that said “Major”. There is a desire to be optimistic, joyful and happy. It is a sense of relief that you are expressing through your jewelry care.
Are there any colors or precious stones that particularly stand out this season?
The thing that resonates with me the most is the combination of colors in the same garment. I’m thinking of the rainbow as a great color idea this season, both real rainbows and rainbow coloring stone mixes in the same article. This is the trend at the top of the pyramid that strikes me. Green is also particularly important.
What do you think about the current popularity of astrological symbols?
It goes back to this idea of personal care or wanting to make a personal statement with your jewelry. Symbols that represent you. See nameplates, astrological signs, lucky numbers. It’s about being connected to things that give you a sense of security, comfort, and grounding. We are seeing many talismans. Amulets of safety and protection, such as the evil eye, are always available, but I see them at maximum capacity.
If you look to 2023, what are you noticing?
In my mind, the things that are shaping 2023 are happening now. There will always be some effect in the current year. I talked about Rihanna’s pregnancy announcement. I was already telling stories about vintage and archival items and then when I saw that picture of her wearing the crucifix, OMG. Everyone will be looking for vintage Lacroix-inspired crosses. She has given him a new face. I don’t think we’ve seen crosses for that long. We are experiencing a Y2K fashion moment, but we have not returned to glamor. I feel like this very directional type of jewelry is having a moment.
The other thing I really wanted to talk about is this idea of novelty. I am using Schiaparelli as inspiration. Eyes, lips and many oversized symbols. That That’s it… episode in which Nicole Ari Parker is on stage wearing a big cancer crab, Schiaparelli. It looks so fresh and new.
Top: Photo courtesy of Jessica Richards
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